Cape York to Mareeba

10^th August 2014 to 19^th August 2014

 

After a most enjoyable week at Seisia, Greg and I left on Sunday 10^th August to stay a couple of nights on the West Coast of the Cape at Vrilya Beach. Sue, Mick and James decided to stay on a few days more at Seisia. We had to use the Jardine Ferry again to get back across to the Peninsula Development Road (PDR) and then onto the very challenging 4WD track to take us into Vrilya. When we arrived there was a line up of vehicles at the start of the track due to someone stopping in the middle of the track to re inflate their tyres. After a short wait we followed six vehicles in, but they stopped further along to deflate their tyres so we were able to pass them and have a clear run ahead. Although we stopped a few times to let some vehicles pass who were coming the other way. The track which is only 44 kilometres in length took us one and a half hours due to some heavy corrugations and some deep ruts. We also had to cross a log bridge at Crystal Creek which after choosing the right line we crossed successfully. It was a good journey and the cruiser handled it all very well but it was even better to get to the coast which is very pretty. There was a camp spot as soon as we reached the beach but we elected to drive nine kilometres to North Vrilya along the beach past the Lightship Wreck to a perfect spot near an inlet. This gas lightship ‘Carpentaria’ ran aground in during a monsoon in the early 1980’s and its rusting hulk remains half buried in the sand.  The beach run was really good as the tide was low and there were only a few spots where we had to travel in the deep sand, but we did it with no problems.

We chose the perfect campsite only 25 metres from the water’s edge just before the inlet and surrounded by some nice trees for shade. We were on the sand and it was so nice to feel sand under our feet instead of dirt. We had a nice gentle breeze to provide us with relief from the heat. Although we couldn’t swim in the water at high tide due to crocodiles; at low tide, when the water went out over a kilometre, nice pools of water remained surrounded by sand banks so that we could safely have a refreshing swim; still keeping a watchful lookout though. Plenty of people stopped by on their way to the inlet for a fish and though it was busy during the day we mostly had this area to ourselves. Nice walks along the beach and shell collecting filled in our two days here. It was a magic spot with beautiful sunsets to enjoy at the end of the day.

Jardine River Crossing

 

Jardine Crossing from the car

 

Crossing the Log Bridge on the Vrilya track

Part of the track into Vrilya

Another section of the road

Vrilya Beach

Driving on the sand

Low tide at Vrilya

Our campsite from the beach

Our campsite looking to the beach

Me in my sarong

Beautiful wildlife at Vrilya

The Lightship wreck

Another view of the wreck

 

and yet another

View  from our campsite at high tide

Sunset at Vrilya

Sunset at Vrilya

View from our campsite at low tide

Another beautiful sunset

Another view from our campsite

 

View of Vrilya form the loolout

 

We left on Tuesday and I drove back along the beach; this is my favourite type of driving especially when the tide is low and the sand is firm. We then drove part of the way to South Vrilya, took a photo at the lookout and then headed back to the main road to reconnect with Sue, Mick and James who were meeting us on the PDR so that we could drive in together on the OTT and have a look at the famous Nolans Brook Crossing. The journey out was much the same as the journey in and we passed no less than 12 vehicles who were coming in.  Nolans is a crossing that claims many vehicles due to the depth of the water; so far this season 47 vehicles have been claimed here. We never had any intention of crossing it but wanted to see it for ourselves. Our decision not to cross was a good one. When we arrived a vehicle had lost traction and started to float away and had to be winched out, we then watched as another vehicle was winched across.

 We then drove back out onto the PDR and crossed back in on the OTT above Sam’s Creek Crossing. This is another challenging crossing, but not with deep water; this one has steep banks to negotiate after you cross the water. After some contemplation Greg and I decided we could do it, but Michael was unsure. Best be safe than sorry; Sue, Mick and James left us to go back onto the PDR and meet us at Eliot Falls where we were to camp for two nights. I walked across to take the all important photos and Greg drove across with James in the car. The water part was easy and when he exited on the bank, with the deep ruts there, he was briefly on three wheels. But the Cruiser did it well and all was good. There were a couple of very pretty little waterfalls on the other side of the crossing that made a lovely photo opportunity.

Nolans Crossing

Sams Creek

Sams Creek

 

Sams Creek

 

Greg entering Sams Creek

Greg exiting Sams Creek on three wheels!

One of the few remaining telegraph poles

Greg and I then drove further south on the OTT to come across another water crossing at Canal creek. This is only a small crossing as well with one deep hole of water but Greg negotiated it very well. Canal Creek has a camp ground there and some beautiful swimming holes, so after we crossed we had a dip in the cooling water. It is understandable why it is called Canal Creek as there are numerous little canals and waterfalls carved amongst the rocks; it is very pretty. We drove only a short way to arrive at the Eliot Falls camp ground to meet back up with our travelling companions. After we found our camp site we decided not to set up until they arrived, but after about an hour we were concerned so asked some neighbouring campers if there was another crossing further south from Eliot falls but north of the PDR. Sure enough they told us there was and it was quite deep and about 30 metres long.  This crossing is not named and only marked on the map as a ford but with no further details, so it came as a surprise to all of us. It appears it is a tributary off Eliot Creek so we’ll call it Eliot Creek Crossing. We got back in the car and drove back there to find our friends on the other side. Michael had already walked it and decided it was too deep to cross as he didn’t want to get water in the car or muck up the electronics; a fair enough decision. They decided to camp back at Cockatoo Creek for the night. Greg and I stayed at Eliot Falls had a few drinks, a chat with our neighbours from Yarra Valley, Mark and Fiona, and a nice sleep. In the morning after we had eaten breakfast and packed up as we decided to only stay the one night; we walked down to the falls for some photos and a swim. First was the Saucepan, which has a small flat waterfall which flows down into a huge deep pool of water; it looks stunning. Then we walked further around to Eliot Falls which is a deep V-shaped gorge where the water falls over into yet another deep pool of water. Then on further to the very picturesque Twin Falls where a higher set of falls drops into a pool which then flows onto a lower set of falls. It is absolutely stunning and the perfect spot for a swim. The lower falls has a huge sandy bottom that you could be forgiven for thinking that it was manmade. The water was not cold but refreshing and the massage from the water falling was sensational. I could have stayed there all day. But time to move on.

Canal Creek

 

Greg Crossing Canal Creek

Greg swimming in Canal Creek

Me swimming in Canal Creek

Eliot Falls

The Saucepan

Twin Falls

Us enjoying Twin Falls

The top section of Twin Falls

 

It was now our turn to cross the deep Eliot Creek crossing. When we arrived there was a bit of a hold up as a vehicle had to be winched out due to a breakdown. Greg walked the crossing again to make sure he could do it and when he was certain of the line, took the plunge. I crossed to the other side to take photos and although at times the water covered the headlights, he made it safely without getting any water into the car. By the time he successfully crossed he had an audience on the other side, with about five other vehicles having a look to decide whether or not to cross and they all applauded him; it was a bit of an adrenalin rush for Greg. Of the five vehicles only one other attempted the crossing. Amanda and Scott from Mackay watched Greg and decided they could do it as well. We stayed until they made it across, Amanda took a video and I took some photos that I will send on to them. Scott was a bit nervous but after he completed the crossing he had a grin from ear to ear.

We then drove a couple of kilometres to Fruit Bat Falls to meet up with Sue, Mick and James and to have some lunch before we continued on our journey. Fruit Bat Falls is very pretty; they are a wide sweeping falls with a beautiful large pool ideal for a swim and of course we did partake in one. It was very refreshing, there is nothing like swimming in these beautiful fresh water holes after travelling dirty, rugged and corrugated tracks.

Greg checking the depth of Eliot Creek

Greg crossing Eliot Creek

Fruit Bat Falls

Me swimming in Fruit Bat Falls

 

 

We are now on the return journey heading back to Mareeba and we decided to stay another night at Bramwell Station on the way down. We had such a good night the first time and we weren’t disappointed this time. Terry Doyle from Cairns was the entertainer and his 50 years in the music industry showed. He has a great talent and interacts well with the adult audience and well as including the kids. We then drove back down to Coen and again stayed on the river at The Bend where we spent three nights on the way up. We stayed another four nights on the way down because it is a beautiful spot and very relaxing. We met a couple from, Emu Park in Queensland here, Richard and Leonie, who would you believe are friends with the owners of Higher Ground Homestay, Cathy and Paul, in Emerald. Greg and I stayed there in November 2011, where we met our four French sons. Richard gave them a call to say who he met and I spoke to Cathy who remembered us and told me she still reads my blog. I was a bit chuffed about that.

After our four relaxing nights at Coen, we decided to do the whole 500 kilometre journey back to Mareeba in one day.  We stopped in at Musgrave Station again  for a stretch before heading to Laura for fuel. We had lunch at the Laura Roadhouse, well we ate something anyway, and then continued our journey. From Laura we were finally back on the bitumen and how sweet it was. We stopped once for a beautiful view from Bob’s lookout and we travelled through some very beautiful scenery. We arrived in Mareeba about 4.30 pm, did some shopping and then went back to our vans on the Blue Sky Property in Paddy’s Green. After something to eat and a few drinks, it was so lovely to sleep in the van bed again after five weeks in the roof top tent.

 

On the road to Laura

 

Laura Roadhouse

 

On the road to Mareeba

On the road to Mareeba

We will stay in Mareeba for the next week or so. There is still a few things we want to see and do in this area. Michael, Sue and James will stay on for a few more weeks and Greg and I will continue our journey. We are not sure where to next, but wherever we go, it is sure to be beautiful and you will read about it in my next blog.

Cheers til next time.