Alice Springs to Mataranka

Thursday 2^nd May 2013 to Saturday 25^th May 2013

We arrived in Alice Springs to a very warm day and thankfully the only caravan park here that allows dogs also had a pool. Our intention was to stay for one week but that was extended by 8 days due to unforeseen circumstances. We decided to send our dog Mister home, it was a difficult decision, but it was becoming increasingly difficult to travel with him for many reasons. We organised, after 3 days on the phone, to fly him out of Alice on Thursday 9^th May, it was a logistic exercise of huge proportions.  Unfortunately the day before he was due to fly out, he was attacked by another dog in the park and had to undergo surgery for damage to muscles in his tummy. The owner of the other dog stayed away and although a few days later offered to pay our costs, was not forthcoming.  The main thing was that Mister was okay and we were able to fly him home without incident the following Thursday. We miss him, but it a lot easier travelling without him and he is in a good home with Greg’s mum, who is spoiling him.

We were able to do some sightseeing in Alice Springs, including the old Ghan Museum and the Road Transport Museum which were very interesting and gave an insight into how our transport system has changed dramatically in really only a few short years. From camels to trains to road trains, it was an interesting journey through time. Anzac Hill is not only a memorial to our fallen soldiers but gives a fantastic view over the township of Alice Springs.

This town is surrounded by the beautiful West MacDonnell and East MacDonnell ranges, also some of the driest red desert in Australia. There is also a range of Gaps and Waterholes to visit and admire. It is really very pretty out and around the Alice and we are glad we had the opportunity to see a little bit of it. We saw Simpsons Gap, Emily Gap and Jessie Gap. Simpsons Gap is the only one with a waterhole, and it is very pretty.

View of Alice Springs from Anzac Hill

                                                   View of Alice Springs from Anzac Hill

Simpsons Gap

                                                   

Aboriginal art at Jessie Gap

                                                                                                    Emily Gap

When we finally left Alice Springs our destination was Devils Marbles. It was an interesting journey and we stopped a number of times to view some history of our outback. First stop was Alleron, which has an aboriginal art museum. Unfortunately it was closed but we were able to see the magnificent statues of an Aboriginal man and a woman with a child and goanna, very impressive and worth the stop. A little further on we came across the remnants of an old Well built by Ned Ryan and the Glenmaggie homestead. Ned built a number of wells which were vital for settlement in arid Australia and this particular one was funded by the government to encourage settlement in the Northern Territory. The Glen Maggie sheep and cattle station was established around the well and they charged a small fee for owners of travelling stock to water here. By around 1930, with motorised vehicles and machine drilled bores, this Well became redundant and of course the settlements did not occur as expected.

Glen Maggie Homestead

Ned Ryan Well

Alleron

 

We then headed onto Devils Marbles, what a spectacular site. We set up camp for one night and then went for a walk around these magnificent granite rocks. We spent over an hour and a half exploring through the rocks and climbing to the top of some of them. The camera got a workout as every turn we took gave us yet a different view, different colour and new perspective of these boulders. We loved it here and saw a beautiful sunset that evening and a gorgeous sunrise the following morning. The Devils Marbles are a must see if you are ever up this way.

Me at Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

Devils Marbles

 

The next day we made a quick stop at Tennant Creek, before heading to Banka Banka Station for the night. On the way out of Tennant Creek we stopped to look at the historic Overland Telegraph Station which was built in 1872. It took seven hours to send a message from Adelaide to England and at that time was the fastest form of communication between Australia and the rest of the world. It was an important refuge for the linesmen and stockmen who worked this route. It closed in 1935 but continued to provide accommodation and storage for the linesmen for many years.

Part of the old Telegraph Station

 

We arrived at Banka Banka station in the early afternoon and what a treat it was. After Coober Pedy, Ayers Rock, Kings Canyon and Alice Springs and camping on red dust for weeks, we were delighted to be camped on a beautiful grassy site. Banka Banka was established as a cattle station and an army camp for soldiers during the 1940’s. The historical mud homestead is still on the property and houses a bar, kiosk and first aid room with a low beamed veranda all the way around it. Wardy and Ree who run the property are really friendly and light a campfire every night around 6pm. It is a great way for everyone to meet each other and have a chat, there are no less than 20 vans or tents and campers arrive on a daily basis.  Close by is the Cudjenbra waterhole, a 2.5 km walk along the road or you can go via the steep climb up the hill and along the ridge. Greg and I walked there on our second day; we took the road to the spot which took about 25 mins and then decided on the rough route on the way home. It took one and a half hours for the return journey over some really rocky ridges and then down some and up some more. I was exhausted when we got back, but enjoyed the walk nonetheless. We ended up staying here for 3 nights simply because it was so relaxing and nice to have grass underfoot.

The fire pit at Banka Banka

The waterhole at Banka Banka

Part of the old mud homestead at Banka Banka

 

After we left Banka Banka we headed to Daly River. This must stop site at the Daly River Pub was fantastic and you simply cannot bypass it if you’re up this way. The pub itself is full of memorabilia from rows of banknotes from different countries, to rows of bras and undies, football Guernseys, stubby holders, thongs, ID cards, caps and much more. Every corner you look in you find another collection of something. They have a pool which was very refreshing in this heat and a wonderful outdoor beer garden where there is entertainment every night. Their Beef and Barra should not be missed, it was mouth watering. This was a very worthwhile stop. We met a couple from Ballarat here; Dianne and Steve and enjoyed their company for dinner and the entertainment.

Daly Waters Pub (the money wall)

Daly Waters Pub (the bra collection)

Daly Waters Pub

Greg with a python at Daly Waters

 

Our next destination was Mataranka, we stayed at the Territory Manor Caravan Park only 3 kms from Bitter Springs. We drove down there and swam in the beautifully warm and clear springs and then followed that up with a dip in the thermal pool near the Mataranka Homestead in the Elsey National Park. I cannot believe how warm and clear the water is, we didn’t want to get out. This area was made famous in the movie We of the Never Never about Elsey Station and the Elsey Homestead Replica is situated at Mataranka Homestead. Mataranka had the Never Never Festival while we were here, with the Stockyard Gallery and Cafe showcasing aboriginal artwork with some of the local artists talking about their art and culture. They also had a family fun day with kids activities and some stalls, not anything like we  are used to but still a nice little income earner for the locals with plenty of tourists to cater to. I really liked Mataranka; it is a clean little town with plenty to offer tourists and it is a place I would come to again.

Bitter Springs

Us at Bitter Springs

Elsey Homestead Replica

Mataranka Thermal Pool

 

As we continue our journey up the centre of Australia towards Darwin, our next stop will be Katherine. We are really looking forward to seeing Katherine Gorge and the Nitmiluk National Park.

Cheers til next time.