July 25th 2014 to 10th August 2014
After we left Cooktown we travelled along the Battle Camp
Road to our next overnight stop in the Lakefield National Park at Kalpower
Crossing. Along the way we stopped at the very pretty Endeavour Falls where we
only had to walk a couple of minutes through the very pretty caravan park to
see Endeavour Falls. It is a very nice setting and the falls were not very high
but quite wide and very photogenic. Next stop was Isabella Falls after a small
water crossing, they are small like Endeavour Falls and in an area that appears
to have had a bit of rain as the roads were very washed out with deep ruts on
the side.
The Battle Camp road itself is made up of some very red dust
and is in pretty good nick, but as there had been a millimetre or two of rain
overnight it was a bit damp but and luckily created no dust for us. I drove my first ever river crossing in the
Cruiser across Laura River. It wasn’t really deep and not at all rough, but
nonetheless I did it. A little further down the road we came across a pretty
little lily pond where we stopped and had lunch and took a couple of photos.
Next stop was the Old Laura Homestead within the Lakefield National Park which
is one of the oldest cattle stations on the Cape. It was restored after years
of decay and even though some of the old buildings were in a bit of disrepair
it was a great photo opportunity.
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On the road to Kalpower |
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Endeavour Falls |
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Isabella Falls |
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Me at Isabella Falls |
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On the road to Kalpower |
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Some of the scenery along the way |
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Some more of the road |
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The Lily pond |
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Old Laura Homestead |
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My first river crossing
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We stayed the night at Kalpower Crossing which was very nice
with showers and toilets and you can also have a fire. This is the route you must take to get to Cape
Melville across the Normanby River. Although we didn’t have to actually do the
crossing, the boys wanted to attempt it. So after we packed up the following
morning, they both drove across and back. I stood on the banks of the river to
video Greg crossing; a bit tentatively I might add as there had been a recent
sighting of a crocodile in the area. As it turned out I was safe and Greg and
Michael made a successful crossing over and back.
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Kalpower Crossing |
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Greg doing the Crossing |
On the road towards Musgrave Station we did one more river
crossing The North Kennedy River at the Hann Crossing. Susie did this one in
the Navara and it was her first crossing as well, again it wasn’t a very deep
or challenging one but she did it. We
stopped at the Musgrave Station for fuel and to make some lunch before moving
on to Coen where we are staying overnight. Well were going to stay overnight
but ended up staying for three nights at a beautiful spot called The Bend on
the Coen River about five kilometres north of the town. Coen itself is not much of a town but good
enough get some supplies. We were camped right on the river where we could swim
and use the water for washing up and washing clothes. Greg and I took a walk up
the 4WD track to see the waterfalls but when we got to the end of the track it
was about another 300 metres to the falls through the river, so we elected not
to complete it. It was a good walk nonetheless. The Bend was a very peaceful
spot and we will definitively go back there. We met a lot of people here who
were on their way down from the Tip and some who were going up, so we all
engaged in conversations that gave us a lot of valuable information.
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Along the road to Misgrave |
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Our campsite at Coen |
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Swimming in the Coen river |
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Below the waterfall on the Coen River |
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Young Aboriginal boy spearing fish |
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Musgrave Outstation |
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Musgrave Outstation |
Next we left for Weipa and on the way we stopped at Archer
River Roadhouse for brunch; we had already had breakfast and it was too early
for lunch. Archer River is one of the major river crossings on the Telegraph Track
and is almost impassable in the Wet. Just over the bridge to the left were the
remains of a 100 series Toyota which had attempted the crossing in very
treacherous conditions. The passenger sadly, did not survive and the driver was
found about 100 metres downstream but still alive. You just shouldn’t take
risks when you’re not sure and it’s not safe.
Weipa is a mining town with not much at all apart from the
fishing and the fact it has a Woolworths, which was an important factor for us.
We stayed here for three nights and had a drive around and saw Australia’s
longest single lane bridge which at 1.2 kilometres long made a good photo
opportunity. We also stopped at the crossing where all the mining dump trucks
travel on their own highway and took some shots of these gigantic mining trucks
passing through. We had a beautiful camp spot right on the beach and although
you can’t swim because of the crocodiles we took some stunning photos of the
sunsets. The park does however have a very refreshing pool which I took the
opportunity to us a few times. We met some blokes who were travelling up to the
Tip on motorbikes and got chatting to them. Ian from Bright and Tim from Swan
Hill and the other two are ex AFL footballers from the Western Bulldogs; Terry
Wheeler and Bruce Reid (who also played for Carlton) whose sons, Ben and Sam
are currently playing for Collingwood and Sydney respectively. They are very
nice people and we enjoyed our chats. We met up with them again at Bramwell Station
a couple of nights later.
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The wreck on the Archer River |
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Archer River |
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Boat Ramp at Weipa |
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The long single lane bridge |
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Around Weipa |
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Under the bridge |
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The longest single lane bridge in Australia |
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At the mining truck crossing |
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Around Weipa |
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Weipa Sunset |
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Weipa Sunset |
After leaving Weipa we were on our way to stay at Bramwell
Station, but first we stopped to have a look at the Moreton Telegraph Station
on the Wenlock River and had a bit of a look around at its very interesting
history. Kris served us lunch here and was very welcoming. Bramwell Station is
still a working station and is the northernmost station in Australia. They have
a wonderful atmosphere and at 5.30pm the bell goes for happy hour. It is a
great opportunity to meet fellow travellers and to hear a bit of history of the
station. They have a resident Brolga in the yards, Olga who is free to leave at
her own will. After dinner, which you can eat there, they have entertainment.
We had the Bagman from Brisbane who played some great music and told some good
yarns. We met up with the bikers from Weipa again and we all had a fabulous
night chatting, singing and dancing.
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Bramwell Station sign on the bar |
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The entertainment |
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The bar area at Bramwell |
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The bar again |
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Olga the Brolga |
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Moreton Telegraph Station |
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Moreton Telegraph Station |
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On the road to Bramwell |
Next morning we left to head for the start of the Overland
Telegraph Track (OTT). We stopped to have a look at the first crossing at Palm
Creek. The road into the crossing itself was challenging and when we got to the
crossing and assessed the situation we decided we wouldn’t risk it. It was very
steep to get in and very muddy and slippery on the other side. We had heard that
two vehicles were winched out of there the day before and later met up with a
man and his son who had to spend the night in the creek because their vehicle
couldn’t complete the crossing without assistance. Our decision was for the
best. I drove the Cruiser back out of there, it was challenging but with Greg
guiding me and taking it easy it was a bit of fun and gave me a bit more 4WD experience
behind the wheel. We then headed to the Heathlands Ranger Station to book into
Elliot Falls for a few nights, but when we got there it was full for that
night. We decided to do that part of the OTT on the way back down from the Top
so that we could guarantee ourselves a camp site. We then drove back down the
OTT to have a look at the famous Gunshot Crossing from the northern side. This
is an extremely challenging crossing and I would never attempt it. One entrance
form the south side is vertical and the other entrance (the chicken entrance)
is not much better. Many vehicles have come to grief here, yet many also cross
it successfully. Personally we respect our vehicles too much to attempt this
sort of crossing. But we are glad we had a look to see what all the fuss was
about.
The next crossing on the OTT was at Cockatoo Creek. This is
a significant water crossing with some deep holes and some rock ledges. We got
out of our cars to assess the situation. Greg walked to the other side to check
for depth and chatted with Matt who had crossed it earlier. Matt told him the
line he took and so we got back in the car and did it. The entrance was a bit
rocky and steep and when we hit the water I was a bit edgy but Greg drove it
very well out onto the other side which was also a bit steep and rutted. I took
a video from within the car, but unfortunately I have no photos of this event. Yay!
Our first serious water crossing was successful and without damage. Michael
then followed Greg in the Navara on the same line and his attempt was also
successful. We camped on the other side of the creek for the night as it was
getting a little late. We camped next to Matt and Sarah from NSW. They crossed
at Palm Creek and Gunshot as well and later when we saw them at Bamaga they
told us they also did the very deep Nolans crossing, which we will have a look
at on the way back down. Not many people cross at Nolans because of the depth
of the water so I doubt that we will either. Cockatoo Creek was a lovely spot
to camp and after we packed up the following morning we had a refreshing dip in
the creek to get the dust off. We also watched as three motorbikes made their
way across the crossing. One of them was keen, the other two weren’t but they
all did it successfully.
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Checking out Cockatoo Crossing |
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Michael crossing at Cockatoo |
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Cockatoo Crossing |
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Gunshot Crossing debris |
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Gunshot crossing |
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Start of the OTT |
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Palm Creek Crossing |
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Palm Creek Crossing |
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Palm Creek Crossing |
We decided to head straight up to Seisia from Cockatoo Creek
and then have a look at the rest of the OTT on the way back. We had to cross
the Jardine River on the Ferry as it is the only way across. Boy they make some
money out of that exercise; $129 return per vehicle for a 40 metre crossing,
but it is what it is. We drove on the Developmental road which is quite
corrugated but not too bad if you take it easy. The other side of the Jardine
was extremely corrugated for about 15 kilometres but after that it was fine. We
arrived at Seisia and booked a powered hut site on the beach which is really
pretty. Mick and Sue were able to set up their tent and James’ swag in one half
of the hut, which has power, running water and a sink with a large bench. It is
really comfortable and handy to have a roof over your head when it rains. Again
we can’t swim in the water because of the Crocs, but this time there is no pool
to keep us cool. However it is a very nice park and we are glad we chose this
one. We have a nice outlook over Endeavour Strait and all the islands of Torres
Strait are visible from this spot. The caravan park has a restaurant and take
away food available as well as ice for the all important Johnny. Seisia has a
supermarket where you can get all your basic supplies and a BP and it’s from
here at the wharf where you can take the ferry across to Thursday Island. The
wharf is where barges come in with supplies for all the local shops and carries
4WD’s, Camper Trailers and people to and from Cairns. A lot of people drive to
the Tip and then catch the barge back or vice versa. A lot of fishing is also
done from the wharf and Greg had some luck in snagging a nice big Spanish
mackerel which we enjoyed for dinner that night. We couldn’t wipe the smile off
Greg’s face and everybody in the camp knew about his catch by nightfall. Mick
also caught a nice size Trevally from the wharf a few days later, he was happy
about that as he and James had put in a lot of effort trying to catch a fish.
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Our campsite at Seisia |
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Greg's Spanish Mackerel |
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Crossing the Jardine |
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Crossing the Jardine |
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Around Seisia |
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Around Seisia |
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Around Seisia |
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Around Seisia |
The Tip which is the ultimate destination and is why we’re
here is only about 30 kilometres from where we are camped. We packed up the
roof top for the drive out there and on the way we stopped at the Croc Tent,
which is basically a souvenir shop for all things Cape York. They also supply
knowledgeable information about the road conditions and what to see. Across
from the Croc Tent is the ruin of the old Lockerbie Station which until its
demise was the most northern cattle station in Australia, the ruin was well
worth taking a photo of. The original owner Frank Jardine experimented with
crops of coffee, tea, sugar and various tropical fruits and then went into
partnership with Ginger Dick Holland to run cattle. Then we drove through the
very pretty Lockerbie Scrub on a very narrow track to get to the top. It was a
pretty rough drive with some corrugations, a waterhole and some deep ruts. But
it was worth the drive and then the 500 metre walk across Frangipani beach and
over some rocks to get to the northernmost point of mainland Australia. We did
it and have the photos to show it. It was a sense of accomplishment; a lot of
people do it now but nonetheless it still makes you feel exhilarated. It was
very windy up there and when Susie was trying to take a selfie on her phone the
wind caught her Akubra and sent it flying into Endeavour Strait never to be seen
again, it was just too dangerous to try and retrieve it. Although we didn’t have the best weather for
this journey, it was overcast and windy and rained a bit but still warm and it
was totally worthwhile.
At the Tip (Pajinka) is an abandoned resort which we saw on
the way in and decided to go in and have a look. You could tell it would have
been something special, but it has all been left total disrepair. There is
still cooking equipment, washing machines, generators and solar panels all left
there. It was built on land given back to indigenous people so the Government
bought it off the owners (Qantas) and gave it to the local Aboriginal people.
It is unfortunate that they didn’t have the business mind to maintain it as it
would have been a beautiful resort only 500 metres from the Tip of Australia. It
is such a shame.
We then drove out to Somerset Beach where there is a pretty
little camping area which overlooks Albany Island. We had lunch under the
picnic shelter there, but unfortunately the wind came up and it started to rain
again, so we moved on. There is a loop drive you can do from Fly Point on the
East Coast to Narau Beach called the Beaches Loop which is 11 kilometres in
total. It is a pretty rough track in to get to the point but that is why we
have a 4WD. Only part of the journey was along the beach and the rest was on a
higher track. The whole track was no worse than the Telegraph Track with some
corrugations and some ruts, but it had one deep sandy section which we got
through okay, but unfortunately Michael got bogged. Greg was able to pull him
out quite easily and we continued on without incident.
Greg and I then drove into have a look at Punsand Bay which
is another camp ground. The road in was a bit corrugated with one water
crossing and a few deep ruts but nothing too bad. The campground itself is okay
but it does have a nice beach and a great little bar area with a pizza oven. We
still like Seisia better. We ran into our biker friends here again and had
another little chat. They are putting their bikes on the barge from Seisia to
travel back to Cairns that way rather than all the way back down the track.
Greg and I then drove a couple of kilometres past Bamaga to have a look at the
old DC3 plane wreck. The plane crashed back in May 1945 on the way to Papua
New Guinea from Brisbane. The wreck remains there as a memorial to those who
died on board.
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Frangipani Beach |
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The crew at the Tip |
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Susie's hat floating in the water |
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Greg and I at the Tip
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The Tip |
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The Tip |
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The Tip |
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The sign |
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Old Lockerbie Station |
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Old Lockerbie Station |
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Old Lockerbie Station |
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The ruins of Pajinka resort |
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The bar at the ruins |
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This car did the OTT!!!!!!!! |
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Punsand Bay |
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Somerset Beach camp where people leave their mark |
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We left ours too |
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Around Somerset |
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Around somerset |
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Us at the Croc Tent |
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DC3 Plane Wreck |
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Other vehicles doing the Beaches Loop |
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Part of the Loop drive |
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On the Loop drive |
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On the Loop drive |
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On the Loop drive |
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The road to the Tip through Lockerbie Scrub |
On the Thursday we took the ferry over to Thursday Island
for the day. We had some free time over there to look around before we did a one
and a half hour bus tour. The tour guide was born on Thursday Island and has a
deep knowledge of the area including World War ll history and the history of
the pearl divers. The journey across and back on the ferry was a little rough
but bearable, but it was very windy and we had a bit of rain while we were on
the island. We enjoyed a nice lunch at the Torres Hotel, Australia’s most
Northern Pub.
Thursday Island is the smallest in the group of Torres
Strait islands, but has the highest population of Islanders with about 3000
during the dry season. It is the administrative centre for Torres Strait
Islands, is only 3.5 square kilometres in area and its highest point is 341ft. It
was a lucrative pearl industry up until World War ll, attracting workers from all
around Asia including Japan and there is a Japanese divers memorial on the
island. The island has a really good infrastructure with a primary school, high
school, a Tafe and a small campus of Cook University. They also have a football
ground, (NRL) a swimming pool and four hotels. The World War ll history is
significant and Thursday Island was the only island in the group that was not
bombed as it was believed because of the divers Memorial, the Japanese believed
that Japanese were still resident there. A neighbouring island, Horn Island had
an airstrip and was bombed three times during the war. Its other close island neighbour is Prince of
Wales Island which is the largest in this group of Islands. We had an
interesting look at the World War 11 defence facility on Green Hill Fort and
overall had a good day.
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Our old Wildhog friend saying goodbye at Seisia Wharf |
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Palm Tree at Seisia |
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Seisia Wharf |
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Welcome to Thursday Island |
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Thursday Island |
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Thursday Island |
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Thursday Island |
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Greenhill Fort on Thursday Island |
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The WW II Islander Troops |
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Part of the display of the Pearl Divers |
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Looking south from the Fort |
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Looking out to Horn Island |
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The Fort |
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Quetta Memorial Church |
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The most northern Pub |
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The divers memorial |
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Beautiful Frangipani on Thursday Island |
We will be heading back down the Cape soon, and will be
seeing lots more interesting places along the way. Those stories and photos
will have to wait for the next blog.
Cheers til next time.