Travelling Around Australia: Cooktown to Cape York and The Tip

July 25^th 2014 to 10^th August 2014

After we left Cooktown we travelled along the Battle Camp Road to our next overnight stop in the Lakefield National Park at Kalpower Crossing. Along the way we stopped at the very pretty Endeavour Falls where we only had to walk a couple of minutes through the very pretty caravan park to see Endeavour Falls. It is a very nice setting and the falls were not very high but quite wide and very photogenic. Next stop was Isabella Falls after a small water crossing, they are small like Endeavour Falls and in an area that appears to have had a bit of rain as the roads were very washed out with deep ruts on the side.

The Battle Camp road itself is made up of some very red dust and is in pretty good nick, but as there had been a millimetre or two of rain overnight it was a bit damp but and luckily created no dust for us. I drove my first ever river crossing in the Cruiser across Laura River. It wasn’t really deep and not at all rough, but nonetheless I did it. A little further down the road we came across a pretty little lily pond where we stopped and had lunch and took a couple of photos. Next stop was the Old Laura Homestead within the Lakefield National Park which is one of the oldest cattle stations on the Cape. It was restored after years of decay and even though some of the old buildings were in a bit of disrepair it was a great photo opportunity.

On the road to Kalpower

Endeavour Falls

Isabella Falls

Me at Isabella Falls

On the road to Kalpower

Some of the scenery along the way

Some more of the road

The Lily pond

Old Laura Homestead

My first river crossing

We stayed the night at Kalpower Crossing which was very nice with showers and toilets and you can also have a fire. This is the route you must take to get to Cape Melville across the Normanby River. Although we didn’t have to actually do the crossing, the boys wanted to attempt it. So after we packed up the following morning, they both drove across and back. I stood on the banks of the river to video Greg crossing; a bit tentatively I might add as there had been a recent sighting of a crocodile in the area. As it turned out I was safe and Greg and Michael made a successful crossing over and back.

Kalpower Crossing

Greg doing the Crossing

On the road towards Musgrave Station we did one more river crossing The North Kennedy River at the Hann Crossing. Susie did this one in the Navara and it was her first crossing as well, again it wasn’t a very deep or challenging one but she did it. We stopped at the Musgrave Station for fuel and to make some lunch before moving on to Coen where we are staying overnight. Well were going to stay overnight but ended up staying for three nights at a beautiful spot called The Bend on the Coen River about five kilometres north of the town. Coen itself is not much of a town but good enough get some supplies. We were camped right on the river where we could swim and use the water for washing up and washing clothes. Greg and I took a walk up the 4WD track to see the waterfalls but when we got to the end of the track it was about another 300 metres to the falls through the river, so we elected not to complete it. It was a good walk nonetheless. The Bend was a very peaceful spot and we will definitively go back there. We met a lot of people here who were on their way down from the Tip and some who were going up, so we all engaged in conversations that gave us a lot of valuable information.

Along the road to Misgrave

Our campsite at Coen

Swimming in the Coen river

Below the waterfall on the Coen River

Young Aboriginal boy spearing fish

Musgrave Outstation

Next we left for Weipa and on the way we stopped at Archer River Roadhouse for brunch; we had already had breakfast and it was too early for lunch. Archer River is one of the major river crossings on the Telegraph Track and is almost impassable in the Wet. Just over the bridge to the left were the remains of a 100 series Toyota which had attempted the crossing in very treacherous conditions. The passenger sadly, did not survive and the driver was found about 100 metres downstream but still alive. You just shouldn’t take risks when you’re not sure and it’s not safe.

Weipa is a mining town with not much at all apart from the fishing and the fact it has a Woolworths, which was an important factor for us. We stayed here for three nights and had a drive around and saw Australia’s longest single lane bridge which at 1.2 kilometres long made a good photo opportunity. We also stopped at the crossing where all the mining dump trucks travel on their own highway and took some shots of these gigantic mining trucks passing through. We had a beautiful camp spot right on the beach and although you can’t swim because of the crocodiles we took some stunning photos of the sunsets. The park does however have a very refreshing pool which I took the opportunity to us a few times. We met some blokes who were travelling up to the Tip on motorbikes and got chatting to them. Ian from Bright and Tim from Swan Hill and the other two are ex AFL footballers from the Western Bulldogs; Terry Wheeler and Bruce Reid (who also played for Carlton) whose sons, Ben and Sam are currently playing for Collingwood and Sydney respectively. They are very nice people and we enjoyed our chats. We met up with them again at Bramwell Station a couple of nights later.

The wreck on the Archer River

Archer River

Boat Ramp at Weipa

The long single lane bridge

Around Weipa

Under the bridge

The longest single lane bridge in Australia

At the mining truck crossing

Around Weipa

Weipa Sunset

After leaving Weipa we were on our way to stay at Bramwell Station, but first we stopped to have a look at the Moreton Telegraph Station on the Wenlock River and had a bit of a look around at its very interesting history. Kris served us lunch here and was very welcoming. Bramwell Station is still a working station and is the northernmost station in Australia. They have a wonderful atmosphere and at 5.30pm the bell goes for happy hour. It is a great opportunity to meet fellow travellers and to hear a bit of history of the station. They have a resident Brolga in the yards, Olga who is free to leave at her own will. After dinner, which you can eat there, they have entertainment. We had the Bagman from Brisbane who played some great music and told some good yarns. We met up with the bikers from Weipa again and we all had a fabulous night chatting, singing and dancing.

Bramwell Station sign on the bar

The entertainment

The bar area at Bramwell

The bar again

Olga the Brolga

Moreton Telegraph Station

On the road to Bramwell

Next morning we left to head for the start of the Overland Telegraph Track (OTT). We stopped to have a look at the first crossing at Palm Creek. The road into the crossing itself was challenging and when we got to the crossing and assessed the situation we decided we wouldn’t risk it. It was very steep to get in and very muddy and slippery on the other side. We had heard that two vehicles were winched out of there the day before and later met up with a man and his son who had to spend the night in the creek because their vehicle couldn’t complete the crossing without assistance. Our decision was for the best. I drove the Cruiser back out of there, it was challenging but with Greg guiding me and taking it easy it was a bit of fun and gave me a bit more 4WD experience behind the wheel. We then headed to the Heathlands Ranger Station to book into Elliot Falls for a few nights, but when we got there it was full for that night. We decided to do that part of the OTT on the way back down from the Top so that we could guarantee ourselves a camp site. We then drove back down the OTT to have a look at the famous Gunshot Crossing from the northern side. This is an extremely challenging crossing and I would never attempt it. One entrance form the south side is vertical and the other entrance (the chicken entrance) is not much better. Many vehicles have come to grief here, yet many also cross it successfully. Personally we respect our vehicles too much to attempt this sort of crossing. But we are glad we had a look to see what all the fuss was about.

The next crossing on the OTT was at Cockatoo Creek. This is a significant water crossing with some deep holes and some rock ledges. We got out of our cars to assess the situation. Greg walked to the other side to check for depth and chatted with Matt who had crossed it earlier. Matt told him the line he took and so we got back in the car and did it. The entrance was a bit rocky and steep and when we hit the water I was a bit edgy but Greg drove it very well out onto the other side which was also a bit steep and rutted. I took a video from within the car, but unfortunately I have no photos of this event. Yay! Our first serious water crossing was successful and without damage. Michael then followed Greg in the Navara on the same line and his attempt was also successful. We camped on the other side of the creek for the night as it was getting a little late. We camped next to Matt and Sarah from NSW. They crossed at Palm Creek and Gunshot as well and later when we saw them at Bamaga they told us they also did the very deep Nolans crossing, which we will have a look at on the way back down. Not many people cross at Nolans because of the depth of the water so I doubt that we will either. Cockatoo Creek was a lovely spot to camp and after we packed up the following morning we had a refreshing dip in the creek to get the dust off. We also watched as three motorbikes made their way across the crossing. One of them was keen, the other two weren’t but they all did it successfully.

Checking out Cockatoo Crossing

Michael crossing at Cockatoo

Cockatoo Crossing

Gunshot Crossing debris

Gunshot crossing

Start of the OTT

Palm Creek Crossing

We decided to head straight up to Seisia from Cockatoo Creek and then have a look at the rest of the OTT on the way back. We had to cross the Jardine River on the Ferry as it is the only way across. Boy they make some money out of that exercise; $129 return per vehicle for a 40 metre crossing, but it is what it is. We drove on the Developmental road which is quite corrugated but not too bad if you take it easy. The other side of the Jardine was extremely corrugated for about 15 kilometres but after that it was fine. We arrived at Seisia and booked a powered hut site on the beach which is really pretty. Mick and Sue were able to set up their tent and James’ swag in one half of the hut, which has power, running water and a sink with a large bench. It is really comfortable and handy to have a roof over your head when it rains. Again we can’t swim in the water because of the Crocs, but this time there is no pool to keep us cool. However it is a very nice park and we are glad we chose this one. We have a nice outlook over Endeavour Strait and all the islands of Torres Strait are visible from this spot. The caravan park has a restaurant and take away food available as well as ice for the all important Johnny. Seisia has a supermarket where you can get all your basic supplies and a BP and it’s from here at the wharf where you can take the ferry across to Thursday Island. The wharf is where barges come in with supplies for all the local shops and carries 4WD’s, Camper Trailers and people to and from Cairns. A lot of people drive to the Tip and then catch the barge back or vice versa. A lot of fishing is also done from the wharf and Greg had some luck in snagging a nice big Spanish mackerel which we enjoyed for dinner that night. We couldn’t wipe the smile off Greg’s face and everybody in the camp knew about his catch by nightfall. Mick also caught a nice size Trevally from the wharf a few days later, he was happy about that as he and James had put in a lot of effort trying to catch a fish.

Our campsite at Seisia

Greg's Spanish Mackerel

Crossing the Jardine

Around Seisia

The Tip which is the ultimate destination and is why we’re here is only about 30 kilometres from where we are camped. We packed up the roof top for the drive out there and on the way we stopped at the Croc Tent, which is basically a souvenir shop for all things Cape York. They also supply knowledgeable information about the road conditions and what to see. Across from the Croc Tent is the ruin of the old Lockerbie Station which until its demise was the most northern cattle station in Australia, the ruin was well worth taking a photo of. The original owner Frank Jardine experimented with crops of coffee, tea, sugar and various tropical fruits and then went into partnership with Ginger Dick Holland to run cattle. Then we drove through the very pretty Lockerbie Scrub on a very narrow track to get to the top. It was a pretty rough drive with some corrugations, a waterhole and some deep ruts. But it was worth the drive and then the 500 metre walk across Frangipani beach and over some rocks to get to the northernmost point of mainland Australia. We did it and have the photos to show it. It was a sense of accomplishment; a lot of people do it now but nonetheless it still makes you feel exhilarated. It was very windy up there and when Susie was trying to take a selfie on her phone the wind caught her Akubra and sent it flying into Endeavour Strait never to be seen again, it was just too dangerous to try and retrieve it. Although we didn’t have the best weather for this journey, it was overcast and windy and rained a bit but still warm and it was totally worthwhile.

At the Tip (Pajinka) is an abandoned resort which we saw on the way in and decided to go in and have a look. You could tell it would have been something special, but it has all been left total disrepair. There is still cooking equipment, washing machines, generators and solar panels all left there. It was built on land given back to indigenous people so the Government bought it off the owners (Qantas) and gave it to the local Aboriginal people. It is unfortunate that they didn’t have the business mind to maintain it as it would have been a beautiful resort only 500 metres from the Tip of Australia. It is such a shame.

We then drove out to Somerset Beach where there is a pretty little camping area which overlooks Albany Island. We had lunch under the picnic shelter there, but unfortunately the wind came up and it started to rain again, so we moved on. There is a loop drive you can do from Fly Point on the East Coast to Narau Beach called the Beaches Loop which is 11 kilometres in total. It is a pretty rough track in to get to the point but that is why we have a 4WD. Only part of the journey was along the beach and the rest was on a higher track. The whole track was no worse than the Telegraph Track with some corrugations and some ruts, but it had one deep sandy section which we got through okay, but unfortunately Michael got bogged. Greg was able to pull him out quite easily and we continued on without incident.

Greg and I then drove into have a look at Punsand Bay which is another camp ground. The road in was a bit corrugated with one water crossing and a few deep ruts but nothing too bad. The campground itself is okay but it does have a nice beach and a great little bar area with a pizza oven. We still like Seisia better. We ran into our biker friends here again and had another little chat. They are putting their bikes on the barge from Seisia to travel back to Cairns that way rather than all the way back down the track. Greg and I then drove a couple of kilometres past Bamaga to have a look at the old DC3 plane wreck. The plane crashed back in May 1945 on the way to Papua New Guinea from Brisbane. The wreck remains there as a memorial to those who died on board.

Frangipani Beach

The crew at the Tip

Susie's hat floating in the water

Greg and I at the Tip

The Tip

The sign

Old Lockerbie Station

The ruins of Pajinka resort

The bar at the ruins

This car did the OTT!!!!!!!!

Punsand Bay

Somerset Beach camp where people leave their mark

We left ours too

Around Somerset

Around somerset

Us at the Croc Tent

DC3 Plane Wreck

Other vehicles doing the Beaches Loop

Part of the Loop drive

On the Loop drive

The road to the Tip through Lockerbie Scrub

On the Thursday we took the ferry over to Thursday Island for the day. We had some free time over there to look around before we did a one and a half hour bus tour. The tour guide was born on Thursday Island and has a deep knowledge of the area including World War ll history and the history of the pearl divers. The journey across and back on the ferry was a little rough but bearable, but it was very windy and we had a bit of rain while we were on the island. We enjoyed a nice lunch at the Torres Hotel, Australia’s most Northern Pub.

Thursday Island is the smallest in the group of Torres Strait islands, but has the highest population of Islanders with about 3000 during the dry season. It is the administrative centre for Torres Strait Islands, is only 3.5 square kilometres in area and its highest point is 341ft. It was a lucrative pearl industry up until World War ll, attracting workers from all around Asia including Japan and there is a Japanese divers memorial on the island. The island has a really good infrastructure with a primary school, high school, a Tafe and a small campus of Cook University. They also have a football ground, (NRL) a swimming pool and four hotels. The World War ll history is significant and Thursday Island was the only island in the group that was not bombed as it was believed because of the divers Memorial, the Japanese believed that Japanese were still resident there. A neighbouring island, Horn Island had an airstrip and was bombed three times during the war. Its other close island neighbour is Prince of Wales Island which is the largest in this group of Islands. We had an interesting look at the World War 11 defence facility on Green Hill Fort and overall had a good day.

Our old Wildhog friend saying goodbye at Seisia Wharf

Palm Tree at Seisia

Seisia Wharf

Welcome to Thursday Island

Thursday Island

Greenhill Fort on Thursday Island

The WW II Islander Troops

Part of the display of the Pearl Divers

Looking south from the Fort

Looking out to Horn Island

The Fort

Quetta Memorial Church

The most northern Pub

The divers memorial

Beautiful Frangipani on Thursday Island

We will be heading back down the Cape soon, and will be seeing lots more interesting places along the way. Those stories and photos will have to wait for the next blog.

Cheers til next time.

Travelling Around Australia

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Cooktown to Cape York and The Tip

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